What? No Water? No Power?

It's dark and you want the light on.  You flick the switch.  Hey presto - light.  Or - if it doesn't switch on, you are a tad frustrated.  It means one of several things - you haven't paid the power bill, or there's a blackout for some reason - or the globe's gone.  Whatever, you are frustrated - because you have taken it for granted that by flicking that swtich - light naturally comes on.  Same with a tap - you want water, you turn the tap on.  Again - magic.  Water pours out.  You turn the tap one way, the water warms up.  Turn it the other, it cools down.  Turn the tap off - the water stops.  But again - you've taken it for granted that there will be water coming through that tap.  And if neither the light switch works or water does not come through that tap, you are not happy - over to the telephone to ring for help.  Dial the right number and your call will go through.  Again, taken for granted.  Later you want to go to the shop - just up the road.  You get into the car, naturally expecting that the engine will start with the turn of the key.  And it if doesn't - that temper isn't improving but nothing for it except to ring the local automobile club or garage and get help as quickly as possible.

Later on, as you are preparing for dinner in the evening, after a hard day at the office or doing whatever you've been doing - suddenly visitors arrive unannounced.  Looks like they're here for dinner too - you put on a brave smile and throw on a bit of extra for them - or if you haven't got that extra, quickly call someone to grab whatever's needed from the shop.  Or - if worst comes to worst - one of the many takeaway places or nearby restaurants to the rescue.

All inconvenient?  Absolutely.  BUT at least such services and utilities are nearby and are convenient - along with all the emergency services.

Now, we are talking about populated areas.  And the story could not be more different hundreds, sometimes thousands of kilometres away - in the outback.  In Australia anyway.  The people, particularly the women, out there do it tough - make no mistake.  They are unique - they literally struggle on a daily basis - simply to survive.  Against almost insurmountable odds - both natural and human.  It seems that no matter which way they turn, they hit another brick wall.  It's almost more normal for their taps not to produce anything more than a billow of red dust - because there isn't any water - these people are usually in drought conditions.  As for the light - well, in many cases, while a lot of these areas are now connected to the 'mains', there are still a lot that aren't and they have to rely on their own generators.  So if the light falters - the globe might have gone but it usually does mean that the generator needs to be restarted - and sometimes this has happened because it needs to be refuelled.  No hopping down to the nearest petrol station out here - it means another long trip into the nearest town or depot to restock fuel.  Communication out there has come a long way and telephones are pretty good now - but even then, if you have to call for help - it's a long time coming, if ever.  Distances are too big.

This is the mighty outback of Australia - and its people.  Many of the men have been born in country hospitals (some on the stations themselves) and have spent their entire lives out there - bar perhaps a few years at boarding school, having been educated for their primary years by the School of the Air and, in its way, correspondence.  But that's about it.  As for the women, a great many of them have originated from either capital cities, or country towns - some from farms and others again from foreign shores - all to live in that pure isolation out there.  These are those amazing women, young and old, who have to learn very quickly to adapt.  Some do.  Some don't.  The allure, novelty and romance of the outback soon wears off and some find that the isolation and loneliness is just too much for them.  They find that they cannot handle it after all.  Many go out there to work as governesses and marry one of their employer's neighbours or another local.

But such is the life in the outback.  And it applies to every age - from newborns through to those wonderful elderly people who possibly should have retired but love it too much and refuse to move away.

Qld - Here I Come - Beware - Be Very Ware

Arrangements for the Qld leg of the research trips for our book are well underway - and again - I am really looking forward to it. 

Before I continue, a big welcome to the new stations which have come onboard, along with a lot of people who have visited stations - and towns in the outback - for holidays/work and have come from other properties, towns, cities and/or other nations. Having spoken with some of these people, face to face when I passed through Blinman, Broken Hill and Cobar - their feelings about the outback and their visits/lives out there are really interesting.  There are so many people coming onboard who I will be contacting by email or phone that I am now putting together a template to send to all of them.  Hopefully, it will be the easiest and safest way to make sure that everyone who wants to participate is definitely included.  

I am able to include some of the new stations in my 'station visits' but the rest will now be covered by mail, phone and email.  But rest assured, you will all be included - even if it takes me a while.

At the end of the SA/NSW leg I flew home from Sydney and threw myself into organising the re-visiting of many of our wonderful retired pastoralists.  This is now underway - but instead of 'formally' interviewing all these people, I am simply asking them a few questions and taking their photographs and obviously giving them a chance to ask me whatever they like.  I had originally sent all those who had agreed to participate in the book, one of the station packages which included a special questionnaire, put together for the retirees themselves.  Many completed these and returned them quickly which is fantastic - and I have met a lot of these people and been given an amazing amount of information about their lives and histories as well as histories of their stations.  All just so interesting.  

I still have two (maybe three) stations in the Northern Territory which I hope to visit sometime in November.  At this stage, not sure when I will begin the WA stations - had hoped for the end of this year but I plan to cover them in a couple of stages and it might be early next year.  Remembering all the time that I am a 'lone soldier' doing this.

My trip to Qld commences when I fly to Townsville, via Brisbane, at the end of August.  I then take a coach west to Mt Isa, stopping for one or two days at six stations en route (all going well), then back down to Brisbane, stopping at one station.  From Brisbane I travel by coach up the coast, through Townsville, stopping at Australia Zoo briefly (relying on memory 

Witchetty Grubs

here) before arriving at Cairns.  Another coach takes me from there out to Karumba on the Gulf of Carpentaria.  I have three further stations along that route.  Spend a day or two in Karumba before returning direct to Cairns and finally flying home, at the beginning of October.  Yes, it's a tight schedule - also a challenging one and I continue to thrive on all this.

As I travel along this amazing road, new aspects/suggestions/thoughts are forever being put to me.  Not long after I returned to Perth from the SA/NSW leg, I was interviewed (at 2.30 am one Saturday...AAAAGGHHH) by The Social Network Station in the USA.   The purpose of this was to be questioned about the impact of the internet and social media on the people in the outback.  I managed to speak with quite a few people about this, during that first leg and the answers were very interesting - and varied.  Coming from different generations too.  But from what I have heard the people in the USA seem to have somewhat of a fascination for our mighty outback and I have been sent more questions - all about the outback - things that I had never thought about - and completely unrelated to the 'net and social media.  But all so wonderful.   There is interest there and I will make use of this opportunity for all it is worth.

And as is well known by now, I will do almost anything to help expose this book - to help these amazing people and our mighty outback.

Stay tuned.

Home Again - Now for the Homework - and Preparations for the Qld Leg

Typical Country Sight

Home again.  The first leg of the research trips for our book is over - sort of.  Actually, it is nothing like being fully complete - but the travelling part is behind me - for this part - I think.  Prior to embarking on this trip I had established contact with yet more people - for both the book and for other reasons but have been provided with heaps more contacts - for stations and/or people who have been living in the outback, throughout SA, NSW, WA and a couple in the NT.  I will be contacting all of these people, along with re-visiting the participating retired pastoralists, in the coming weeks.  Suggestions/thoughts/ideas continue to pour in as does info about stations and their histories - from all over the place.  All so good.

Before I continue, though - I have been extremely remiss (probably more than once and I am sure it will happen again) in that I did not mention the famous Blinman Pub Pizza Night, which Sally Henery took me along to on the Friday night I was at Alpana Station.  These yummy pizzas are made by the pub owners and staff on the spot - and are nothing short of sensational.  Believe me - this statement - coming from moi - is quite something - as most who know me well also know that I am not a 'pizza person' - having 'out-pizzad' (is that a word?) myself in my twenties - but even I couldn't resist those of the pub.  And the variety - fantastic.  That was also the time of my reunion with Mary Fisher - and meeting many other people, most of whom are coming onboard.

After leaving Julie and Justin McClure of Kallara Station, north of Cobar, I spent a couple of days in the town itself - the intention being to contact the owner of another station, south of Cobar - but sadly, I was unable to reach him.  He will not be missed out though - as with so many others which are now coming onboard, our contact will be by mail and telephone - and email where possible.  Instead, I did have the opportunity to have a chat with Sharon Harland and staff of The Cobar Weekly, before visiting the Cobar Primary School to take photos.  Sharon has also put me into contact with another talented young lady - the girl who sang the national anthem at the Cobar Races - and, who, I believe, is a truck driver at the mines, when not singing.  There will be more about her later (I hope) - and a photo in the book.  The Principal of the primary school has been wonderful enough to throw his support behind our book - he showed me around the school and gave me (almost) free reign to photograph - and photograph I did.  The libararian was also wonderful enough to lend me a book about the history of the school, which I will be returning as soon as I can.  I also met a couple of teachers who have come from the city or other areas and now teaching 'out there' - they will all be coming onboard, hopefully.  All have such interesting stories to tell. 

Moving on from Cobar, north east to Dubbo and then turning north to my next property, Uralla, out of Coonamble.  Home to Marg and Charlie Beck, with one son, Ant, also living and working at home. More amazing hospitality, dished out by the bucketload - by country people - will it never end?  I hope not.  Marg and Charlie, like Sally and the McClures before them, were nothing short of FANtastic.  On my first day there they took me for a wonderful drive to Baradine, dropping into the Pilliga Forest information centre - absolutely fascinating - then onto Coonabarabran before going into

View within the Warrumbungles - partly showing trees which were burnt.

the mighty Warrumbungle Ranges - I saw first hand the absolute devastation caused by those nightmare fires which swept through earlier this year.  How awful for those people.  Miraculously, the observatory was left unscathed - how is beyond me - but it was.  The views - again - spectacular.  Marg had asked me if I like 'rustic' buildings.  I do.  The next day, we drove out to another of the Beck's properties around Coonamble.  And here were those rustic buildings - on seeing them for the first time - I was speechless.  For those who know me - this is a rarity, although is becoming more common as these trips continue.  Rustic?  Absolutely.  And something more - again, I just couldn't get enough.  Marg was more than spot on with her description.  More photos - heaps'n'heaps of them but do not feel I caught the true 'spirit' of the buildings.  Judge for yourselves, in the book.  

My absolute heartfelt thanks to Marg, Charlie and Ant for their wonderful hospitality and - everything.  Again also to Sally Henery and Julie and Justin McClure.  You are all - wonderful.  Simple words really cannot describe how I have felt throughout this first trip.  

Just a little aside here - it might be noticed that there is not a photo of the actual house on Uralla, the Beck's main property, whereas the houses on both Alpana and Kallara have been included - the reason being that both the latter are stations which have moved over to include tourism - something which more and more properties in Australia are being forced to do - simply in order to survive. It is not an easy life out there and they're not exactly getting any help.  However, Uralla does continue to be a working property only - but not without struggling.  Some more photos will be included in the book.  

By the way - I returned home and found that I have actually lost a bit of weight!  Not through lack of eating - believe me I have never been fed so well, or so much, or so healthily - throughout the journey - all the best home cooked country food and piles of it.  I also did a lot of walking while away - which would have helped - but I think the major cause of my weight loss - or should I say - lack of weight gain would be - no junk food.  No take away.  Just good wholesome food - oh - also some superb home made chocky - and those pizzas.  But otherwise - need I say more?

The final part of this first research trip was a quick visit to Sydney before flying home to Perth - and my family.  

Next stop - watch out Qld.  Three to four weeks up there - really looking forward to that too.  

Read all about - everything - in the book.

This Amazing Adventure Continues - and I can't get enough

Front Verandah - Kallara Homestead

The adventure certainly does continue.  I am now in Cobar, somewhere near the middle of NSW.  

Sally Henery was lovely enough to drive me from  Alpana Station to Port Augusta so I could visit my own old SotA base there.  And I did.  However I had been unable to contact that SotA for a few reasons (none to do with anyone at the base), to warn them of my impending visit - so I was not expected.  But I did meet the Vice Principal who was wonderful in taking a few minutes to quickly show me a lesson in progress - via the internet.  A far cry from the 'old' SotA days.  She also gave me her contact details so I am now able to keep them up to date about the cover design and title competition and SA's isolated families will be included with all the others nationwide.  

Down to Adelaide for a busy couple of days, meeting people and I did manage to catch up very quickly with one of my brothers and sister-in-law.  On my way yet again, heading north east toward Pitcairn - and then straight past it.  Countryside and towns all very familiar.  We were actually an hour late leaving Adelaide (very annoying reason for this which might - or not - eventually be revealed) and were unable to completely make up that time, while also trying to avoid kangaroos in the latter part of the trip.  But full marks to our brilliant driver, Mitch, for her efforts.  Our ETA in Broken Hill was 11.25 pm but instead we lopped in at sometime after midnight.  All the other passengers had homes to go to up there - but not me.  Oooooh no, I had to be different and believe me - that's not a good idea when you're in an unfamiliar town at that hour of the morning.  I have been to The Hill before, many years ago, but my memories are not strong.  I didn't recognise a thing after the 'Welcome to Broken Hill' sign.  My next coach was due to leave at 3.30 am - so, as can be guessed, not a lot of sleep was enjoyed.  None in fact - I didn't get to bed.  I did have everything organised - or so I thought - but therein lies another story.

Anyway, I caught that 3.30 am coach and arrived in Cobar on time at 9.25 am.  Following instructions I found my way to the local race course in time to see preparations in full swing,  for the Cobar Miners Race Club Annual Race Meeting.  Now, to say this event was a vision to behold - just amazing.  Absolutely and truly amazing.  The bright colours, the sheer professionalism, the atmosphere, food and drink etc.  Huh?  This was an outback race meeting?  Not the Melbourne Cup?  The fashions were straight out of a magazine for goodness sake - and they were easily equal to or better than those of any city meeting - including the hair styles - perfect.  Sharon Harland, Editor of The Cobar Weekly did suggest that I should pack appropriate attire for this event, including a fascinator - and I did.  Not the fascinator but the rest was there - in my case and there it stayed.  By the time I reached the race-course at first I was a tad beyond worrying about how I looked.  Then I was just too darned excited and happy to be there - so, yes, I stood out like a sore thumb - also because I am not a local.  Sharon's suggestion should have 'warned' me - but I honestly don't think anyone could have prepared me for that event.  These people know how to do it in style. I did get some wonderful photos, even if I do say so myself.  Including one of the Mayor.  Poor lady - but such a gracious person and her outfit - wow.  I'll never forget her - but hope she might forget me.  The day and event itself - also unforgettable.

Finally - out to my next station.  Kallara Station.  Home to another amazing couple, Julie and Justin McClure - and family, all away at school.  Julie's Uncle Max had attended the races and was good enough to drive me out after the day was over.  My thanks to you, Max.  Julie and Justin - like Sally Henery (I didn't meet her husband David - he was away for my visit) - are powerhouses of energy and information.  So warm and welcoming, bubbly, that fantastic outback sense of humour - and could not have been more supportive with information.  These women leave me lost for words.  The men too and in many cases these stations have been in their families for at least a couple of generations - anyway it will all be covered in the book.  Needless to say, there is no way that I could do what they do - live out there and all that goes with it.  My hat goes off to all of them.

I had a wonderful time on Kallara, being made to feel completely at home.  Took heaps of photos, had a ball.  Yesterday morning, when it was actually drizzling, one of the workers dropped me back into Cobar on his way home to Dubbo.  My thanks to him for that.  

I continue to meet many, many locals as well as those on the actual stations and getting heaps of photos - some of which will not be included - but many will.  As time is against me for this trip, particularly as I am being swamped with information, I have more or less settled into a 'routine' - in that I am making a point of meeting people as I can and if they have a story to tell which is in any way relevant at all, I introduce and explain myself, give them a business card (thank goodness I brought heaps), take a photo if necessary and contact details, mentioning that I will be in contact again once I have returned home.  This includes those on the stations themselves.

I am starting to have people actually approach me - this is a new world to me.

Next stop, Coonamble and my last station for this trip.  

I continue to absolutely thrive on this and looking forward to the next leg, Qld.

Sally Henery did mention that she could see how much I was and am loving doing this - that I am in my element - Sally doesn't think I'll ever finish this book because I am enjoying the research just a bit too much - and she could well be right.  

But it will be published - somehow - sometime.

The beautiful Darling River forms one boundary of Kallara.

My First Station Visit Completed - sortof - And It's TERRIFIC

Front verandah of the Alpana Station homestead

Well!  What can I say?  It is all very real and to be able to describe my feelings - I can't.  I just can't.  Try to expand on 'euphoric' - and you still won't come anywhere near to it - but that should give you a bit of an idea.  Simple as that.  I am absolutely and completely overwhelmed by the warmth, friendliness (is that a word?) and - everything, all rolled into one, of the people I have met thus far.  

My heartfelt thanks to the wonderful Sally Henery of Alpana Station, which is the very first property, nestled in South Australia's superb Flinders Ranges.  Sally has been the perfect hostess - to say nothing of being an absolute mine of information - I have just spent two and a bit days on their property and, honestly, could not have wanted for more - of anything - except time.  I needed far more time.  Far too much to see and do for such a limited time.  Sally introduced me to so many people - some from other nations, others originating from other parts of Australia, either cities, towns or farms, or even other stations - but all of whom are living and working in or near the tiny local township of Blinman - and all have a story to tell.  I even caught up with Mary Fisher, who used to live on 'Pitcairn'.  A wonderful reunion.  Most of these people have been fantastic enough to agree to participate in 'our' book - so I do have a very, very busy time ahead of me.  All so good.

I am not going to describe the 'area' surrounding Alpana and Blinman - suffice to say 'spectacular' does not really come anywhere near to the true description - but I can't think of anything else, so it'll do - and you'll just have to see why when the book is finally published.

There are also some absolutely amazing stories and facts coming to light - this is a huge learning curve for me.  The teeny tiny township of Blinman is steeped with history and is really lovely but - well, let's just say the people in the town and surrounding properties do have their problems - but much will be revealed elsewhere.

Hey, I even went into the fantastic Blinman Mine - wow - what an experience.  That 'wow' factor certainly applies here too.  And an unexpected bonus for my trip, which took both Sally and me by surprise - Alpana's  Tag-Along Tour.  Again you'll just have to read the full description in 'our' book - but it is pure magic - trust me.  The Wild Lime Cafe & Gallery is also a must-visit.

The sights and scenery of the majestic Flinders Ranges - WOW again.  But trying to take notes (that mine of information from Sally - some memory there) and photographs at the same time, while being driven along some pretty rocky roads, at some amazing angles ... hmmm.  So much fun though.  I had to take notes - or try to - as it was a tad too noisy for my little tape recorder.  Anyway, the book will tell all.

Now I am in Port Augusta, having been driven back by Sally today.  We dropped into Wilpena Pound along with a few other wonderful spots, en route.  Tomorrow I will be visiting the SotA base here, which is the one we used on Pitcairn - it's actually the only one in SA.  But I am really looking forward to that.  A couple of other places to visit while in town (recommended by those wonderful people in Blinman and surrounds), then off by coach to Adelaide for a couple of days.

Having been completely out of contact while on Alpana it was lovely to be able to talk with my husband and both daughters once I returned to civilisation.  Yes, I am missing them all very much - and this will only serve to make my eventual return home all that much sweeter.

But so much to look forward to before then.  And it will all be described fully in 'our' book. 

The original Alpana homestead.