I'VE BEEN TO THE KIMBERLEY - AT LAST!!!

The spectacular Windjana Gorge

Well, OK - into the western edge of it, but enough to get just a glimpse of how spectacular it is. I continue to travel throughout our great outback and the further I go, the more I love it. There is just so much to see and learn out there - at this stage, I have completely lost interest in travelling overseas and all I want to see is the outback. I am sure I will regain that overseas interest one day but for the moment, there is just so much more of my own backyard that I want to see and experience.

Yes, the end is in sight but I have postponed publication to the first half of next year (2016) and I am starting to feel the heeby-jeebies (otherwise known as withdrawals). It's been the most amazing 'project' - when the seed was planted three or four years ago, I honestly did not think I would actually act on it. But here I am. And I am jolly proud of my efforts to date. I admit that I am getting close to turning the big 6 - 0 but do not feel that I am slowing down at all. At least, not overall. I also continue to make some of the most amazing friends as I travel on this road. 

I have actually been on two more wonderful trips since my last post. The first was up to Exmouth - after the success of the little Hyundai that I hired to take me out to Wonganoo Station, north east of Leonora, I decided my own little car should be able to take me on the next trip - up to Exmouth, back to Carnarvon, turning east to visit two stations between Carnarvon and Mullewa, before heading back to Geraldton, via Northampton - and finally home. This was the idea anyway. Unfortunately, while in Exmouth I managed to pick up some sort of virus which took hold in Carnarvon. The planned two nights there stretched into four - and not to be outdone, my car picked up its own virus and I had to cancel the stations visits - which kind of partly defeated the purpose of the trip. But I still did manage to visit two couples which was really lovely. One was in Northampton, the second in Geraldton.

I was incredibly disappointed about not being able to visit these stations but just did not feel I could trust my little car out there after all and I was also not sure whether I was contagious or not. Between these two stations I was also planning to spend a couple of nights at the Murchison Settlement, which would have given me a different perspective again - but not to be. Anyway, while one of those two stations does appear to have pulled out, the second has come onboard by email and they were very quick and efficient to do so, including images. And another station in WA has also come onboard since, also by email. My thanks to you both.

Coast near Exmouth

After this trip I was back in Perth for less than a week before I boarded a coach to head north again. This next trip took two nights and a day and was a great way to see the countryside between Carnarvon and Broome, which I had only flown over previously. Travelling overnight meant that I did miss some of the sights but I'll never forget the approach to Port Hedland, both from the north and the south. I had been told it is big - but those lights seemed to stretch forever. The only other time I can remember seeing lights like that was when I flew into Singapore on my 24th birthday - there seemed to be an enormous number of lights! Maybe because there were. Anyway, we had to drop off and collect passengers in Port Hedland - that seemed to happen in a couple of different spots so I did see quite a lot of the city. And it really is big. I really would love to visit it during the day time. Just another addition for my bucket list for our outback.

Our arrival in Broome was a tad later than scheduled. Rob was there to meet me which was lovely. We went straight to breaky then back to her place briefly so she could pack and prepare the car (she was coming with me - or maybe I was going with her) and also so I could say hello to Guaco, my grand-parrot. Really lovely to see them both. We were soon on our way again, heading north toward Derby but turning east onto the Gibb River Road shortly before we actually entered Derby. But Rob had a lovely surprise for me - she had told me about this but nothing really prepared me for the art at the amazing Mowanjum Aboriginal Art & Culture Centre. As the name suggests, it is completely devoted to just that - Aboriginal art and culture. And I guess this has helped cement my deep and total respect and admiration for the art that our Indigenous people can produce. The colours are spectacular - every piece has a story behind it. I really could not get enough of it. 

Then we moved onto Birdwood Downs Company Station, which is an ecological demonstration project, American owned and founded in 1978. It is run primarily on voluntary basis and most of the staff we met are WWOOFERS (Willing Workers On Organic Farms). Mostly young people from other nations, all really lovely and a lot of fun. Hans Leenaarts, the Director and Business Manager, our wonderful host, took us on one of their Ecological Tours which was absolutely fascinating. It took in both a homestead and a station tour - all so interesting. Yet another station that I could not get enough of. It is also a station stay property with the accommodation being mainly in the form of Savannah Bungalows - two rows of them. Lots of fun.There is also a dormitory to cater for excess guests and/or staff as well as a camping ground. They've got everything! Even their own man-made rainforest, right outside the homestead front door. It has three paths leading through it - the pic shows one of these. They are just so cool and lovely to walk through. Except they do have spiders (yes, my fear coming to the fore yet again) up there and I was just a little concerned when walking along these paths at night that I might walk right through a web. It didn't happen but that fear was ever present - not that it actually stopped me from going through - too lovely not to. I was very very careful and jumped every time there was the slightest movement! We did have an unwanted visitor in the shower though - in the form of a rather large Huntsman. It was sitting/standing on the wall next to the taps and I could have sworn it waved one of its spindly legs at me - but now I feel very proud that I did manage to have a shower with it watching me (I'm sure it was - I was certainly watching IT) but did find it a tad difficult trying to wash my hair while keeping one eye on it. I fully expected it to jump on me. It didn't and next time I went into the ablutions block it had disappeared.

Rob and I were also invited to join Hans and the staff on a marsh camp/party on our first night there. While I was very dubious at first at the thought of camping, Hans had assured us that if we did not want to stay the night, he would bring us back to the station. That was a

terribly generous gesture but I am proud and very thankful to say we both stayed and had the best time. Watching those magnificent clear night skies up there - you could almost touch the stars. How can you beat that? Absolutely superb.

And on the second afternoon, some visitors arrived. From Radio Goolarri 99.7 FM they were there to interview Hans. But someone mentioned that we were also there to conduct interviews and I found myself being questioned about this. Never one to lose the chance to expose the book, I agreed to be interviewed. That was exciting and completely unexpected. 

We left Birdwood very early on our third morning there and Rob had another surprise for me. Although she had told me but nothing actually prepared me for the experiences themselves. We drove further east along the Gibb River Road, slightly further into the Kimberley and then turned off to visit the mighty Windjana Gorge - and I FINALLY saw freshies in reality for the first time ('freshies' being croc-speak for freshwater crocodiles - the 'safe' ones). I loved it. That was just so exciting and Windjana Gorge really needs to be seen to be believed. It is spectacular. After that we visited Tunnel Creek, a few kilometres further south. This was also excellent. But did present rather more of a challenge to get through - it is a 'tunnel' after all and does pass through a large range. We had to climb, stumble, half-swim, stumble, sortof walk and did I mention stumble - through the pitch black for this one. Rob had brought two of those thingies with lights (pointing forward for

preference) on them that you wear around your head - similar to a miner's helmet I suppose, but without the actual helmet. There were lots'n'lots'n'lots of rocks, big and small. And even one freshy. Not that I really saw it - but apparently if you looked directly at it you could see two eyes watching you - a tad eerie but I was busy keeping a very close eye on a Huntsman which was perched on a rock in the middle of the water! We eventually reached the end of the tunnel, had a look around - absolutely fascinating to say nothing of beautiful and then turned and retraced our steps back to the start. I hadn't been sure what to wear for this and was trying to figure out what would be most suitable for doing the above. I finished up not doing anything - not even bothering to roll my jeans up. My sandshoes stayed on but I did take my sox off. And so I got drenched and squished everywhere! All part of the fun.

Once back at the car, we had a light picnic lunch which Rob had very thoughtfully and sensibly provided (thank goodness - I hadn't even thought about it). After this we drove on to see the ruins of the old police station a bit further south. Again fascinating. Then we saw an old mine site before turning right into the Great Northern Highway and heading west toward Broome. Kimberley is also the only area (that I know of) in Australia that has Boab trees (don't quote me on that one), which are really interesting. Amazing shapes. There are descriptions and stories about many of the things mentioned in these blogs in the book itself.

Fish and chips for dinner that night and Rob was able to be with me on the Monday - she had the day off. We met her friend for lunch and then visited the wonderful Short Street Gallery, featuring Indigenous art as well as some lovely skin care products (Rohr Remedy) before going to see the warehouse where the art work for the above gallery is stored. It is absolutely jam packed with the most superb works - we purchased a beautiful piece for Rob's 30th birthday. We also did some shopping, visited the Indigenous Magabala Bookshop where we both bought probably a lot more than we should have. 

Unfortunately Rob had to return to work the next day so I spent  my last few days walking, 'working' (on the book), bonding with my grand-parrot and just enjoying life. As I had use of Rob's car, I spent my last day there trying to find my way around Broome. A few wrong turns - quite a few wrong turns - I even found myself out at the port. Not quite sure how but the colour of that water - just superb. I had a great time getting completely lost in Broome - I had a great time in Broome full stop.

Some very exciting news - something that I was beginning to think just wasn't going to happen. Thanks largely to the ICPA (Isolated Children's and Parents' Association) as well as the School of the Air (or Distance Education) I am now receiving quite a lot of entries for both the cover design and title. Really pleased about that. There is also now a deadline: August 15th.

I have to admit that upon returning to Perth after the Broome and Kimberley trip, once I had seen my family, home, pets and car - all I could think of was why on earth do I live in Perth and not in Broome or somewhere in the outback? It was all I could do not to catch the next flight, bus, train or whatever north or east.

But in a few weeks I am off on the very final research trip for the book - to Mt Augustus. Really looking forward to it as I have every other area of our outback.

WESTERN AUSTRALIA - YOU'RE NEXT

Believe it or not - the book on stations, or the stations book, or Red Dust Dreams - is finally looking like heading toward publication.  I have slotted that in for the end of 2015!  All images for the participating stations to date have been issued, except WA - and some have already been edited by those station owners and returned to me.  Thank you so much.  Also for the suggestions/thoughts/comments which continue to come through - all very welcome.  And the texts are gradually being completed and also sent out - still working on those.  A couple have already been edited by their respective stations and returned.  Cheryl has also begun the major editing.  

Also slowly but surely finalising interviews with the wonderful group of retired pastoralists whom are participating - and a lot of others.  The list continues - but my editors are putting the brakes on for me - badly needed.  We have our stations people, retired pastoralists, Indigenous people, backpackers, bikies, some who live in the cities but regularly work in the outback, shearers, truckies - and more.

Unfortunately at this stage, it does seem that the cover design and title for the book will be decided between my family and friends - and not by the families and students of the School of the Air after all.  I have tried to issue details of the competition to all bases nationwide, but to date, I have not had a lot of response.  I have also now had to issue a deadline.  I have not given up but am looking at Plans B and C just in case.  I also remain in hope that the ICPA might be able to help with this.  If necessary, I will turn to the participating stations themselves for help with this - and then, in a final fit of hope, turn to family and friends, as mentioned.  

But now and at last - it's WA's turn and the first of four trips here has already been undertaken.  My sincere thanks to Kathy and Malcolm Boladeras of Wonganoo Station, some hours north east of Kalgoorlie, for showing me some more of this amazing country hospitality recently.  This was the first time I had driven myself (hired my trusty little Hyundai in Kalgoorlie) and loved every bit of it.  Saw much of the station, thanks to Kathy's tour - even three camels in the distance and countless goannas - and a snake put in a special appearance by slithering across the road in front of us.  I see and learn something new with each and every station visit - this time it was the camels and goannas.  The Boladeras' even have a donga which I have read about in the past, but never seen.  And a great undercover entertainment area called a Spinifex Shed (or coolhouse) which is based on the Coolgarie Safe concept of water running down over the spinifex.

Four more stations here to cover and I start these with two which are between Exmouth and Geraldton.  Driving myself again, in my own little Yaris.  Then I am back in town for a week before catching a coach up to Broome and out to a station stay property in the Kimberley.  Very excited as my daughter will be joining me on this one and I will be spending a few days with her in Broome before heading south again.  After that, back again for about a month before my very final trip - a coach tour to Mt Augustus.  Two new stations coming in by email from WA, joining several others also coming on board by email, in other states.

And that's it.  Finito.  I do have a mammoth amount of writing to do in between all these trips still - but continue to love every bit of it. 

Shoe from Priscilla, Queen of the Desert.

Hello all.  Just thought you might like to see a pretty famous shoe - belonging to 'Priscilla - Queen of the Desert', no less.  I suppose the other one does too - actually, I don't think there is another one.  For those who have seen the film, it's the one that sat on top of the bus.  On this occasion, however, it was sitting on the stage at the Broken Hill Agfair in May this year.  Just thought you might all be interested.  

Ok - now we are on countdown - or should I say, we are trying to be on countdown to the WA research trip.  Most of you should know by now that we are also trying to cover this final trip with a documentary - called 'Red Dust Dreams', surprisingly enough.  And the film crew?  'Red Dust Dreamers'.

Making a documentary to cover the research for the book is something that never occurred to me.  Until I did the research on the NT recently and several people there told me that what I am doing - both the book itself and the research trips and all involved therein - is fascinating.  Well - I already knew that - but it was lovely to hear others say it to me.  Those same people then asked why it isn't all being covered with a documentary.  I agreed - sort of - but also thought it's a bit late for that.  Most of the nation has already been covered.

Once back home I began thinking - the seed had been planted and was growing.  Yes, it was too late for the rest of the nation - but then, given the amount it is costing anyway - it just would not have been a viable proposition.  But we still had the WA stations to cover - so why not!  Having absolutely no idea where or how to start I began contacting film and documentary makers, mainly interstate for some reason.  Some just ignored me but those who were good enough to respond, lost interest very quickly when I explained that it concerns the outback.  Then I turned to home - and the first that came to mind and should have been the first and only one from the beginning - was/is MOVING IMAGES AND TV PRODUCTIONS the business belonging to TV cameraman, Steve Fitzgibbon and his wife, Sue.  Steve had worked with one of my daughters, Fiona, when she was doing an internship as a journalist at Perth's WTV and he was also good enough to come and film me doing a spiel at one stage.  So - I contacted him and he is now onboard, followed by our second cameraman, Christian Niddrie (of REVELATION PICTURES, Fiona and Warren Masilamony, our editor.  We are now looking at employing a PR professional to join our crew.

Please bear in mind that while the documentary will only cover the WA stations, as most of you know, the rest of the nation has already been covered and there are a lot more participating stations involved.  With the permission of said stations I will be including as much info and as many images as possible about each and every one, including some 'touristy' info.  My thanks to those stations that have already responded so positively to this.

The purpose for 'Red Dust Dreams' the documentary, is two-fold - actually it's more than that - it's quite a few-fold.  The original intention of the book and hence the doco was and still is to help raise the image of the people of outback Australia, to try to help educate those in urban Australia and the rest of the world about how the people out there live, some simply surviving on a daily basis.  We are focussing more on the domestic side of life, rather than the business side - except for those stations that have moved over to tourism.  Life is hard out there - make no mistake - but most of those in urban Australia just do not understand.  We are hoping both the book and the doco will help with that understanding.  The doco will provide a more visual experience to accompany the written journey through the outback and into the lives of some of these remote families and communities.  It will also provide a more behind-the-scenes look at the creation of the book, including how the author integrates into that lifestyle and how research is conducted to gather the mass of information required.  

We also want to capture and share the beauty of the outback, the spectacular scenery that is unique to our outback - which can only be caught on film.  We are also planning to interview, photograph and film some of the locals in the towns we will be travelling through (Kalgoorlie, Leinster and first station, Mt Magnet, Mullewa and second station, Geraldton, Northampton and third station, perhaps Kalbarri, fourth and fifth stations, Denham, Carnarvon, Coral Bay, Exmouth and sixth station, Dampier, Karratha, Pt Hedland, Broome, Derby and seventh station, Newman, Meekatharra and hopefully Mt Augustus) - yup - just a few places and we might not be able to visit all of them but the main ones should be included.  Much of this is also being done in the name of helping to increase WA's tourism, along with generally just trying to help spread light on this amazing and largely unknown remote culture. 

Aspects included will be entertainment, transport, employment, education (showing the rest of the world how the children of the outback learn), infrastructure, transport, communication, shopping, mail, tourism, affects of social media, health - and so much more.

And what are we doing?  Along with two of my 'crew' I plan to hire a 4WD and drive out to Kalgoorlie, then follow the route outlined above to each of the seven participating stations and a few other tourist spots.  I will be filmed meeting, interviewing and photographing the stations owers/managers and their families, staff members and some key local townspeople as mentioned.

'Red Dust Dreamers' consists of moi, author and Behind-the-Scenes Production Co-Ordinator; Steve Fitzgibbon - Producer/Production Manager, Sound, Camera Operator; Christian Niddrie - Film Director, Production Assistant, Lighting, 2nd Camera Operator; Warren - Film Editor, Media Packages and Broadcast Sales and Fiona - Script Writer and Voice Over.  We are also looking into employing a professional PR person at the moment too.  Yes, they are all professionals and I could try to do the lot by myself - but that just wouldn't work and I don't want anything but the best for our outback.  Steve and Christian will be joining me on the roadtrip.

However, money keeps coming into it - rearing its ugly head. Very little happens in the world without it and Red Dust Dreams, the documentary, is no different.  Trying to raise the amount required to fund such a roadtrip is proving to be just a bit of a challenge.  I had originally planned to cover the WA stations with one of my usual research trips in August (as in NOW) but, then I put it back to October, but despite all our efforts at trying to raise said funds, unless we receive a huge injection of funds in the next six weeks or so, I am now pretty well confirming that it will occur in May next year.  The book will be published next year too.  To help raise these vital funds, we would be extremely grateful if you would visit our crowfunding campaign site and donate a teensy bit of money - or even a lot.

For more info on our trip and to see me (this crazy woman) live on camera (getting a taste for the trip itself) please do click on our crowdfunding campaign and help us by sharing and spreading the word about our trip and to try to raise those funds.  We are also trying to contact as many relevant businesses and companies as possible around the nation to gain interest in sponsorship.

For tips on travelling in the outback generally - and particularly if you are a crazy middle aged female who has, up to now, insisted on travelling throughout the outback by herself, please visit our special FaceBook page.

Thank you.  See you all next post.

Not the most normal sight in the outback

Hello again.  I have just returned from another amazing trip - to Adelaide, up to Broken Hill, back to Adelaide, up to the Alice and then up to Darwin.  Still the best way to see the best part of the nation in my opinion - the outback by coach.  The amazing Greyhound drivers once again transported me safely up the Stuart Highway, delivering me into the Alice for a day, enroute to Darwin.  My thanks to them all - in Qld as well - and to Dee Gurd, the supervisor in Adelaide who bent over backwards to help me.

This trip actually gave me the opportunity to tick off a couple of the items from my bucket-list.  First, flying in a smallish aircraft - I grabbed this chance from Adelaide up to Broken Hill.  And it didn't disappoint - it was fabulous.  Unexpectedly I also found myself being able to fly on/in a helicopter - at last!!  Better than I'd ever imagined and cannot wait to go again.

Up in the Hill, due to a misunderstanding at my accommodation, I actually spent the first night with the wonderful Mary and Peter Beven.  Not quite sure what I would have done without them to be honest - the Agfair was on the same weekend and all accommodation had been booked out a long time in advance.  Never mind.  It all finally worked out.  I managed to work on the book while there, as well as spending some hours on the Saturday at the Agfair. I also attended the 

annual RFDS (Royal Flying Doctor Service) ball - what a fantastic night!  Also included was a look around the amazing Silverton, the Hill itself - and I even managed to meet the hugely talented outback artist and one of the 'Brushmen of the Bush' Jack Absalom - a lovely gentleman even if I had no idea who he was at first.  And finally the Beven family station, Sturt's Meadows.  There were many other highlights too - all will be mentioned and expanded on in the book.

Back down the Barrier Highway, through more very familiar countryside as we passed through Mannahill, Yunta, Oodlawirra, to my next stop at Terowie, where I was staying with the fantastic Jacki and Peter Mattey on Franklyn Station, which is next door to Pitcairn.  A wonderful day there included a tour of their numerous properties around Terowie - although I used to live in the area I had never before seen any of this countryside - another first for me.  This tour included something rather - unusual...no other way to explain it.  I had never seen anything like it before and am quite sure I'll not see anything like it again.  On Thursday we drove down to Adelaide, again passing through very familiar countryside.  I left the Matteys on the Saturday and spent a further couple of days in Adelaide before catching that wonderful Greyhound for the trip up north.

My fleeting visit to the Alice was terrific and I have two more locals coming onboard from there, all of which is wonderful.  On the Friday evening, I caught the next and final coach up to Darwin. This entire trip passes through many stations which I found absolutely fascinating and am trying to find a map showing them all.  One of these stations is Erldunda, which is now a superb roadhouse and tourist centre while all remaining part of the working station that is Erldunda and which used to belong to very good friends of my family's.  

And into Darwin.  Still my favourite capital city - so like a big country town.  I had a lovely view from my hotel room and again managed to get a lot of work done while also having a few lovely walks around the CBD - and - here is where I was able to tick that third item off my bucket list.  Seeing crocodiles in the wild.  And I would not have missed it.  Nor the entire day out. 

Time to come home - I flew back to Perth on the Tuesday.  Now to continue with the actual writing of the book.  And catching up with all the wonderful retired pastoralists again - starting to finalise it all. 

As with each trip, I have had some amazing and many very - eye-opening - experiences, some of which will be mentioned in the book - others will remain forevermore silent.  

In August, I plan to cover the WA stations, the final state.  Unfortunately, for various reasons, I have not been able to physically visit every participating station, but all of them will still be included, provided they wish to.   They will be done by email.  The comp details for the cover design and title for the book have now been issued to all, or most, School of the Air - or Distance Education, bases nationwide so that is underway.  And I have finally begun sending out those promised copies of Dad's book, 'The Sawers From Pitcairn'.

As for that 'something different' and unusual eluded to on Franklyn station - well, you'll just have to wait to read all about it in the book.

    

Courtesy of WikiCommons:
KooronaCroc

Typical rain gauge - rarely anything in them.

Hi all - apologies for the silence but while I have been very busy since I returned to Perth after the Qld part of the research trips in September, I haven't been on any further trips - apart from a really lovely day up to visit some of our retired pastoralists out of New Norcia. 

The rain gauge shown here is typical of those on most stations - and usually completely empty apart from old cobwebs etc. - and dust.  Always and forever dust.

After returning to Perth from my last amazing trip criss-crossing Qld, I have been busy working on the book - it is winding down - or up - now and while 2013 did not end on the most positive note, nor has 2014 begun very positively - except for the announcement from our eldest daughter and her now-fiance of their engagement and the graduation, with honours, of our second daughter - both superb news - we are getting there.  Onward and upward.  All good.

I am starting to finalise the interviews and photographs for the retired pastoralists and for a number of other people who are coming onboard.  I am still getting 'newies' joining in on a regular basis - now have some CWA members and shearers along with a piano tuner (I hope - still to be confirmed) who used to travel to the stations between Darwin and Alice Springs.  Also a few backpackers.   I am still following up leads for a number of others too.

And I am just preparing to head off on the next part of the research trips - heading to Adelaide again - flying up to Broken Hill to visit another couple of retired pastoralists who have been wonderful enough to organise this particular visit - and their family station which, for various reasons, I was unable to include on my first trip through NSW and SA - back down to visit another station which is actually a neighbour of my own childhood home, 'Pitcairn', then back to Adelaide for a couple of days before catching another wonderful Greyhound coach up to Alice Springs, visiting another station there before heading right up to spend a couple of days in Darwin - and then finally flying direct back to Perth.

I believe my visit to Broken Hill actually coincides with a couple of major annual events - the Agfair which runs for a couple of days - hoping to meet lots'n'lots of people and get lots'n'lots of photos.  The second event is the annual ball for the RFDS (Royal Flying Doctor Services).  Both of which should be fantastic.  Also a political dinner - all of which I am looking immensely forward to.

Back to Perth and I will be plunging heavily into the writing and organising of our book.  This will also be the time I will finally try to contact a the people whose details have been very generously provided to me by a lot of the station people I have already met.

The actual research trips should be completed sometime in August of this year when I plan to drive up the WA coast, visiting all participating stations en route.  I know there are still a few stations in both NSW and Qld that, for various reasons, I was unable to visit - hopefully I will still be able to cover these by email.  A couple of them have already emailed a lot of images, which is terrific - and I do have quite a lot of information from most of them already.  I will be contacting all stations which have missed the actual visits.

Also now starting to get the competition details for the cover design and title for the book out to all the SotA bases nationwide.  Really looking forward to seeing the entries for both parts of the competition.

Still loving this all so much and meeting the most amazing people.  

Next posting should come from somewhere in SA, NSW or the NT.  Stay tuned......

Distance Education or School of the Air - class in action!!