The Rest of Qld

We are now into November and seem to be in an awful hurry to reach Christmas.  I'M not in a hurry but the rest of the world seems to be!  And I appear to have been somewhat remiss in that I have neglected to finish the rest of the Qld part of the blog.  It continued to be absolutely fantastic.  

Before I plunge into this blog (which is well overdue anyway - a bit longer shouldn't hurt) I do need to thank the people on those stations in the NT and WA who responded to my email of a few weeks ago, apologising for the length of time it is taking me to cover the research for our book.  Most of these people have been lovely enough to respond telling me that they understand and are still interested in participating - so they are still very definitely 'in' for next year.  There are still two stations in SA and one in NSW to cover yet.  During my research trips I have also been given heaps of info and contact details for various people - as yet I have not contacted many but will be doing so.  This includes those amazing retired pastoralists who are, or were, joining in.  I had hoped to do most of this contacting when I returned from Qld but a few - unexpected - things have happened which have caused more than a few hiccups.  

But this book is far too important to me - and I believe to all those that I have already met throughout our mighty outback - I also thank those of you who have contacted me to offer the most amazing encouragement and support.  All phone calls etc are on my list and those people will be contacted early in the new year, including all the retirees.

So onward and upward.

After leaving Tori and Alex I caught the overnight coach through to Brisbane.  Stayed there for one night before heading all the way up to the coast to Cairns.  What a trip!  Have to take my hat off to Greyhound - they do the best job.  That trip turned into a bit of an adventure - all good but all will be revealed in the book.  I had three nights in Cairns which I did enjoy, have to admit - but was more than ready to head bush again once that time came.  Usually I make the most of these 'town stops' to play catchup - get a blog out if I can, upload and register all photos, make phone calls, whatever.  But none of this happened this time.  The net wasn't working in my room and my mobile decided to go on strike.  Camera wasn't very happy either.

An early start on Friday 20th September saw me heading inland again.  Cairns would be one of the most stunning places to enter and leave, both by air and road.  Winding up to the Atherton Tablelands provides spectacular views back across Cairns, hills and the water - out to the Great Barrier Reef and some of the islands therein.  Can't fault it.  And cannot equal it either.  Arrived in Georgetown a couple of hours later - actually have two stations there - and another one enroute to Georgetown - but for many reasons, two are now possibly being covered by email (they will not be missed out, just have to figure out the best way to bring them in).  Tragically there was a fatal light plane crash which occurred while I was travelling further south - I did at the time, vaguely wonder whether any of 'my stations' would be affected.  But then I figured - this is part of the mighty outback of Australia I am writing about.  So - YES - of COURSE some of 'my stations' were affected - direct for a few - as in the deceased were actually relations or extremely close friends for some.  Remembering that most of these remote areas in our great nation are very close-knit, yes this certainly did affect people, far and wide.

And because of this some of my plans had last minute changes - but this is all part of the learning process and adventure, as far as I am concerned - just a very sad reason.  I finished up spending a couple of nights in a lovely little motel in Georgetown itself but Saturday night was spent on the HUGE Abingdon Downs Station, some hours north of Georgetown. As previously mentioned, it is the 'engine room' of the Keough Cattle Company and as it turned out, I wouldn't have missed Abingdon if I was paid to.  It is 1.1 million acres small - naturally cattle country, even has crocodiles (STILL didn't see one though), cane toads (almost stepped on one) and just so much more.  Absolutely wonderful.  Even a gorgeous little foal was born - just for me! - or so I like to think!!  My hosts, Anita and Campbell had asked all their staff and several other property owners from around the area, to a lovely BBQ in the evening.  While tinged with sadness - overall a good time was had by all - well by me anyway.

Dam - or - Turkey's Nest

But - oh-so-dry.  Travelling west from Cairns, the countryside does vary hugely but the one common fact - it is DRY.  I found it to be absolutely fascinating - AND beautiful.  While many of the city folk that I talked to during this trip said they had also been out to different places in the outback of Qld, they all had the same opinion.  That it's very boring with nothing to offer.  

But what so many do not seem realise, or care about, is that there are people out there - people who literally are struggling to survive.  On chatting with many of the actual station people I found that those who have lived out there for most of their lives - do not see a future.  How incredibly tragic.  And when they explain this feeling - I can understand.  The reasons for this feeling - not going into here - but some do make my blood boil.

There was one more station on this trip that I did visit, briefly.  I did not stay overnight but did visit the house and took many photos (by the way my camera is playing up so while I do have heaps of photos, they are all coming up as pretty flowers - which is lovely, but not what I want - this will be corrected the next posting - I hope).  But again lovely people, another very different homestead and surrounds - they all vary so much, so hugely and this fascinates me in itself.

 
This last property, Old Glenore Station, belongs to Marg and John Beard.  Again a lot of photos were taken, including their lagoon - another which is inhabited by those elusive crocs.  All I wanted was one pic - one pic - and nothing more - but - oooooh no - they stayed well and truly out of sight.  Still, it is their habitat and not mine so I didn't intrude any further - didn't get any pics of any - but I didn't get eaten either and am still alive to tell the tale!!  After asking John a few questions Marg took me back to my motel.  Next day I headed further west out to Karumba.

Karumba was my last outback stay for this trip.  Karumba Point to be exact - and what a finale.  What a gem of a place.  It truly is where the outback meets the sea - right on the Gulf of Carpentaria.  It ranks at the top of my list of favourite places in Australia now.  But it was also my last hope at seeing a croc in the wild - and that vanished at dawn on my third morning there, when I left and returned to Cairns.  Ah well.  

There were a few aspects about Qld particularly that left me rather stunned - in the best way.  Or maybe I just hadn't noticed this previously - but as I travelled deeper into the outback, I noticed that every station, irrespective of how remote it was/is, was well signposted on the main roads.  I would have said that meant it's not easy to become lost - but I know that it is.  All these signposts are very neat and tidy - or those that I saw were.  Very easy to read.  Once you leave the main road and head off into the blue horizon might have been a different matter - but certainly those signposts told their own stories.  

And there was/is one other thing that 'hit' from the very first station in Qld.  Not going to tell you about it now - but it is/was something that I found that many of 'my' stations appeared to have in common.  Apart from the continual struggle to survive and all associated therein, that is.  Not sure that I actually liked the idea or not.  This aspect actually scared me - terrified me in fact - but also caused the deepest fascination and desire to know more.  And no, it is not spiders. 

All will be revealed in our book.

The further west and away from civilisation that I headed the more the terrain amazed me.  I do love water, I do love lush green grass and general growth, hills and mountains - but the further I ventured into our mighty outback - the more I know that this is the land I love.  They desperately need water, yes - but it is and always will be the most magnificent place on earth to me.

What a FANtastic Adventure This is

Posers!!!

What a brilliant way to see Australia!  And well off the beaten track.  I am enjoying this just so much - tiring yes but I would not miss any of it for anything.

I am now over half way through the Qld leg of the research trips for our book on stations.  The first couple of weeks were nothing short of wonderful - five very different stations in their individual ways (although mostly cattle and all in this rotten ongoing drought), along with homesteads and owners/managers.  A new station came onboard literally a couple of weeks prior to my flight to Brisbane and yet another has joined in since then.  More are talking about it.  Unfortunately, at the 'eleventh' hour a couple did have to pull out of the actual physical visits but remain very much a part of the book - will all be covered by email etc instead or - however.  They will not be missed out.

I cannot thank these wonderful and amazing station people enough for their hospitality, friendship and support for both the book and for me.  They are all bending over backwards in their efforts to support the book.  

To add to the excitement, it seemed that most towns between Mt Isa and Brisbane have a claim to fame.  The first of these is the famous 'Walkabout-Creek-Pub' made famous by the 'Crocodile Dundee' movie.  I could almost see Linda, Hoges and friends walking over the verandah.  Sadly, as these coaches are there to serve their passengers for one purpose, to get from 'A' to 'B' safely and on time, I could not ask the wonderful driver to stop for photos.  Another famous town is Winton, home of our wonderful song 'Waltzing Matilda'.  Then of course came Longreach, home of Qantas - which I had known but had completely forgotten, probably because I was still recovering from Walkabout Creek.  But lo and behold, talk about reality - there, right beside the road was a Qantas jumbo!  I would have loved to have a good look at the cockpit but that time restraint came into play again.  As each town came into view, I kept wondering what this one would be famous for - and then getting angry with myself because I felt I should have known.  Even little Tambo, which I am told (and should have known) that is the site of the first Qantas crash.  Hmmmm.....I fly with Qantas all the time.

There were more towns with their claims to fame as we travelled further down the track toward Brisbane but this was an overnight trip so I didn't see a lot.  Not that I slept well - but it was dark. Then on our way from Brisbane up the coast to Cairns, our first tea break was at 'Matilda' - and there was Matilda in full bloom - the kangaroo made famous at the Commonwealth Games some years ago.  Might have made an appearance at the Olympics in Sydney, too.  From then on, I saw the big pineapple, the big mango, several big birds and lots of other big things.  I gave up listing them but all were worth seeing.

The stations that I have had the absolute pleasure to visit in Qld (and the other two states thus far) were all equally wonderful and all had their own tales to tell - well, maybe not the stations themselves, but the people did.  I continue to meet some of the most unique people, making some lifelong friends as I travel.

Distance Education in action.

Number one for the Qld leg, was 'Bluff Downs', the home of Rhonda Smith and which was my first taste of a 'Queenslander' - and absolutely beautiful.  One very proud home owner is Rhonda, apart from being a superb host (as they all were) and rightfully so.  The second, 'Ulcanbah', the home of the Hollingsworth Brothers and families, is also a true Queenslander, under renovation.  More unforgettable hospitality and friendship - even managed to sit in on a School of the Air (now known as Distance Education, I think) in action.  Absolutely amazing.  As I watched I was taken back a 'few' years to my own SotA days - oh-so-different.   I even unintentionally found myself becoming part of one lesson - I was trying to make a landline phone call and became part of a lesson in progress instead.  All part of the fun.  

Third station was 'Torquay', home of Beryl Hunter, station owner and authoress.  Beryl has even been good enough to give me a copy of her book, which I am looking forward to reading.  As has happened all along this 'learning curve' I found myself with a couple of new perspectives for the book - I was there for three nights (little mistake in dates) instead of the normal two.  So the first was spent in 'Torquay's' 'Queenslander', the second in their town house in Hughenden and the third - in the Hughenden hotel/motel.   I was able to briefly meet Beryl's outgoing caretaker, Garry Greenwood, who was about to leave on a nationwide trip with his lovely wife, Wendy.  Garry and I had quite a chat (he was a cameraman for one of the major networks in a 'past life' and is also an author/writer) and we hope to work in conjunction with each other in the future. Hughenden is also where I did have a short chance to put my feet up and watch a tiny bit of TV (having seen very little - no loss).  But this just happened to occur on the 7th - yup - election day.  The TV only had one channel - or should I say, it actually had a large number working - but all airing the same thing.  No prizes for guessing - election coverage from go to wo!  Could have done without that and I know I could have turned it off - pretty simple really.  But curiosity did get the better of me and I watched it, in between catching up on registering photos etc for the book.  Anyway, the result?  Well, let's just say that given the reaction of these true country folk after the event - my support and loyalties have only been cemented.  Enough said.

Fourth station (as it has turned out) for this stretch was 'Judith Royl, home to Barry Keough, of Keough Cattle Company Pty Ltd.  Apart from this station, there are five others in this company and two of them have now also come onboard.  Again a wonderful time at 'Judith Royl' - I even met the mail man, Arthur Crapp.  He is not your 'regular' mail man and more about him, including a pic, will be in the book.  I also met one of Barry's daughters, Leigh - and her family who live on 'Windsor Park', a neighbour of 'Judith Royl's'.  Quite a few members of Barry's family now appear to be coming onboard, in some way or other.  While his wife does not live on the station, I did have a quick telephone chat to her - she does the most amazing bark paintings.  Hope to have further chats in the future.  The other member who spoke with and we also plan to work with each other, is Klancie, a singer of growing repute - she actually made it to the final six in 'Idol' some years ago.  I believe she has an amazing voice (as does her mother) and we have established contact by email. 

The next station I cover is 'Abingdon Downs', a huge property north of Georgetown, out of Cairns.  It is managed by Barry's son, Campbell and is the powerhouse of the Keough Cattle Company.  There is one more after that, 'Old Glenore', the Beard's property out of Normanton.  Again there are a couple more on this part but both are now being covered by email.

My last station on the first part of this trip was 'Lumeah', home of Tori Carroll and partner Alex. Finally, I have seen wild pigs (they are BIG), deer, camels, dingoes (albeit from afar), many different birds and of course, the inevitable million or so kangaroos, emus and rabbits.  Probably a lot more.   Even a snake - well I didn't actually see it, but sure as heck knew about it.  This was on 'Lumeah' - my host, Alex, found it curled up in a sack full of fodder for their domestic animals, in a back shed.  A sack, I might add, that both Tori and Alex delve a hand into regularly to feed their animals. Gives me the shudders.  We had just returned from another wonderful trip around the station looking at things (getting photos etc) when Alex suddenly screamed blue murder - to Tori and me it could only mean one thing - SNAKE.  The ensuing scene?  Alex ran off trying to find something to grab it, Tori running around madly grabbing Roger the Jack Russell and speeding up the nearest, highest object (which happened to be an old couch) while I ran around trying to get positions for great photos while hoping to stay out of the way for one angry snake.  Guess it was a good way of cleaning out the little shed - the snake didn't show itself again (sensible thing) but there were endless hiding places, most of which have been removed now.  I do take my hat off to Alex for that effort.  

Sadly, dingoes are prevalent in the areas I have visited and evidence of their destruction is clear in many places on these stations - other animals having been caught and brought down - some not killed but just left to die a very slow and painful death.  Koalas have all but been wiped out up here - not thanks to humans, nor fires, nor floods - but dingoes.  Enough said.

The adventure and excitement just doesn't cease - and nor should it.  

And I continue to absolutely thrive on it.

An arid landscape - beautiful but oh-so-dry....

What? No Water? No Power?

It's dark and you want the light on.  You flick the switch.  Hey presto - light.  Or - if it doesn't switch on, you are a tad frustrated.  It means one of several things - you haven't paid the power bill, or there's a blackout for some reason - or the globe's gone.  Whatever, you are frustrated - because you have taken it for granted that by flicking that swtich - light naturally comes on.  Same with a tap - you want water, you turn the tap on.  Again - magic.  Water pours out.  You turn the tap one way, the water warms up.  Turn it the other, it cools down.  Turn the tap off - the water stops.  But again - you've taken it for granted that there will be water coming through that tap.  And if neither the light switch works or water does not come through that tap, you are not happy - over to the telephone to ring for help.  Dial the right number and your call will go through.  Again, taken for granted.  Later you want to go to the shop - just up the road.  You get into the car, naturally expecting that the engine will start with the turn of the key.  And it if doesn't - that temper isn't improving but nothing for it except to ring the local automobile club or garage and get help as quickly as possible.

Later on, as you are preparing for dinner in the evening, after a hard day at the office or doing whatever you've been doing - suddenly visitors arrive unannounced.  Looks like they're here for dinner too - you put on a brave smile and throw on a bit of extra for them - or if you haven't got that extra, quickly call someone to grab whatever's needed from the shop.  Or - if worst comes to worst - one of the many takeaway places or nearby restaurants to the rescue.

All inconvenient?  Absolutely.  BUT at least such services and utilities are nearby and are convenient - along with all the emergency services.

Now, we are talking about populated areas.  And the story could not be more different hundreds, sometimes thousands of kilometres away - in the outback.  In Australia anyway.  The people, particularly the women, out there do it tough - make no mistake.  They are unique - they literally struggle on a daily basis - simply to survive.  Against almost insurmountable odds - both natural and human.  It seems that no matter which way they turn, they hit another brick wall.  It's almost more normal for their taps not to produce anything more than a billow of red dust - because there isn't any water - these people are usually in drought conditions.  As for the light - well, in many cases, while a lot of these areas are now connected to the 'mains', there are still a lot that aren't and they have to rely on their own generators.  So if the light falters - the globe might have gone but it usually does mean that the generator needs to be restarted - and sometimes this has happened because it needs to be refuelled.  No hopping down to the nearest petrol station out here - it means another long trip into the nearest town or depot to restock fuel.  Communication out there has come a long way and telephones are pretty good now - but even then, if you have to call for help - it's a long time coming, if ever.  Distances are too big.

This is the mighty outback of Australia - and its people.  Many of the men have been born in country hospitals (some on the stations themselves) and have spent their entire lives out there - bar perhaps a few years at boarding school, having been educated for their primary years by the School of the Air and, in its way, correspondence.  But that's about it.  As for the women, a great many of them have originated from either capital cities, or country towns - some from farms and others again from foreign shores - all to live in that pure isolation out there.  These are those amazing women, young and old, who have to learn very quickly to adapt.  Some do.  Some don't.  The allure, novelty and romance of the outback soon wears off and some find that the isolation and loneliness is just too much for them.  They find that they cannot handle it after all.  Many go out there to work as governesses and marry one of their employer's neighbours or another local.

But such is the life in the outback.  And it applies to every age - from newborns through to those wonderful elderly people who possibly should have retired but love it too much and refuse to move away.

Qld - Here I Come - Beware - Be Very Ware

Arrangements for the Qld leg of the research trips for our book are well underway - and again - I am really looking forward to it. 

Before I continue, a big welcome to the new stations which have come onboard, along with a lot of people who have visited stations - and towns in the outback - for holidays/work and have come from other properties, towns, cities and/or other nations. Having spoken with some of these people, face to face when I passed through Blinman, Broken Hill and Cobar - their feelings about the outback and their visits/lives out there are really interesting.  There are so many people coming onboard who I will be contacting by email or phone that I am now putting together a template to send to all of them.  Hopefully, it will be the easiest and safest way to make sure that everyone who wants to participate is definitely included.  

I am able to include some of the new stations in my 'station visits' but the rest will now be covered by mail, phone and email.  But rest assured, you will all be included - even if it takes me a while.

At the end of the SA/NSW leg I flew home from Sydney and threw myself into organising the re-visiting of many of our wonderful retired pastoralists.  This is now underway - but instead of 'formally' interviewing all these people, I am simply asking them a few questions and taking their photographs and obviously giving them a chance to ask me whatever they like.  I had originally sent all those who had agreed to participate in the book, one of the station packages which included a special questionnaire, put together for the retirees themselves.  Many completed these and returned them quickly which is fantastic - and I have met a lot of these people and been given an amazing amount of information about their lives and histories as well as histories of their stations.  All just so interesting.  

I still have two (maybe three) stations in the Northern Territory which I hope to visit sometime in November.  At this stage, not sure when I will begin the WA stations - had hoped for the end of this year but I plan to cover them in a couple of stages and it might be early next year.  Remembering all the time that I am a 'lone soldier' doing this.

My trip to Qld commences when I fly to Townsville, via Brisbane, at the end of August.  I then take a coach west to Mt Isa, stopping for one or two days at six stations en route (all going well), then back down to Brisbane, stopping at one station.  From Brisbane I travel by coach up the coast, through Townsville, stopping at Australia Zoo briefly (relying on memory 

Witchetty Grubs

here) before arriving at Cairns.  Another coach takes me from there out to Karumba on the Gulf of Carpentaria.  I have three further stations along that route.  Spend a day or two in Karumba before returning direct to Cairns and finally flying home, at the beginning of October.  Yes, it's a tight schedule - also a challenging one and I continue to thrive on all this.

As I travel along this amazing road, new aspects/suggestions/thoughts are forever being put to me.  Not long after I returned to Perth from the SA/NSW leg, I was interviewed (at 2.30 am one Saturday...AAAAGGHHH) by The Social Network Station in the USA.   The purpose of this was to be questioned about the impact of the internet and social media on the people in the outback.  I managed to speak with quite a few people about this, during that first leg and the answers were very interesting - and varied.  Coming from different generations too.  But from what I have heard the people in the USA seem to have somewhat of a fascination for our mighty outback and I have been sent more questions - all about the outback - things that I had never thought about - and completely unrelated to the 'net and social media.  But all so wonderful.   There is interest there and I will make use of this opportunity for all it is worth.

And as is well known by now, I will do almost anything to help expose this book - to help these amazing people and our mighty outback.

Stay tuned.

Home Again - Now for the Homework - and Preparations for the Qld Leg

Typical Country Sight

Home again.  The first leg of the research trips for our book is over - sort of.  Actually, it is nothing like being fully complete - but the travelling part is behind me - for this part - I think.  Prior to embarking on this trip I had established contact with yet more people - for both the book and for other reasons but have been provided with heaps more contacts - for stations and/or people who have been living in the outback, throughout SA, NSW, WA and a couple in the NT.  I will be contacting all of these people, along with re-visiting the participating retired pastoralists, in the coming weeks.  Suggestions/thoughts/ideas continue to pour in as does info about stations and their histories - from all over the place.  All so good.

Before I continue, though - I have been extremely remiss (probably more than once and I am sure it will happen again) in that I did not mention the famous Blinman Pub Pizza Night, which Sally Henery took me along to on the Friday night I was at Alpana Station.  These yummy pizzas are made by the pub owners and staff on the spot - and are nothing short of sensational.  Believe me - this statement - coming from moi - is quite something - as most who know me well also know that I am not a 'pizza person' - having 'out-pizzad' (is that a word?) myself in my twenties - but even I couldn't resist those of the pub.  And the variety - fantastic.  That was also the time of my reunion with Mary Fisher - and meeting many other people, most of whom are coming onboard.

After leaving Julie and Justin McClure of Kallara Station, north of Cobar, I spent a couple of days in the town itself - the intention being to contact the owner of another station, south of Cobar - but sadly, I was unable to reach him.  He will not be missed out though - as with so many others which are now coming onboard, our contact will be by mail and telephone - and email where possible.  Instead, I did have the opportunity to have a chat with Sharon Harland and staff of The Cobar Weekly, before visiting the Cobar Primary School to take photos.  Sharon has also put me into contact with another talented young lady - the girl who sang the national anthem at the Cobar Races - and, who, I believe, is a truck driver at the mines, when not singing.  There will be more about her later (I hope) - and a photo in the book.  The Principal of the primary school has been wonderful enough to throw his support behind our book - he showed me around the school and gave me (almost) free reign to photograph - and photograph I did.  The libararian was also wonderful enough to lend me a book about the history of the school, which I will be returning as soon as I can.  I also met a couple of teachers who have come from the city or other areas and now teaching 'out there' - they will all be coming onboard, hopefully.  All have such interesting stories to tell. 

Moving on from Cobar, north east to Dubbo and then turning north to my next property, Uralla, out of Coonamble.  Home to Marg and Charlie Beck, with one son, Ant, also living and working at home. More amazing hospitality, dished out by the bucketload - by country people - will it never end?  I hope not.  Marg and Charlie, like Sally and the McClures before them, were nothing short of FANtastic.  On my first day there they took me for a wonderful drive to Baradine, dropping into the Pilliga Forest information centre - absolutely fascinating - then onto Coonabarabran before going into

View within the Warrumbungles - partly showing trees which were burnt.

the mighty Warrumbungle Ranges - I saw first hand the absolute devastation caused by those nightmare fires which swept through earlier this year.  How awful for those people.  Miraculously, the observatory was left unscathed - how is beyond me - but it was.  The views - again - spectacular.  Marg had asked me if I like 'rustic' buildings.  I do.  The next day, we drove out to another of the Beck's properties around Coonamble.  And here were those rustic buildings - on seeing them for the first time - I was speechless.  For those who know me - this is a rarity, although is becoming more common as these trips continue.  Rustic?  Absolutely.  And something more - again, I just couldn't get enough.  Marg was more than spot on with her description.  More photos - heaps'n'heaps of them but do not feel I caught the true 'spirit' of the buildings.  Judge for yourselves, in the book.  

My absolute heartfelt thanks to Marg, Charlie and Ant for their wonderful hospitality and - everything.  Again also to Sally Henery and Julie and Justin McClure.  You are all - wonderful.  Simple words really cannot describe how I have felt throughout this first trip.  

Just a little aside here - it might be noticed that there is not a photo of the actual house on Uralla, the Beck's main property, whereas the houses on both Alpana and Kallara have been included - the reason being that both the latter are stations which have moved over to include tourism - something which more and more properties in Australia are being forced to do - simply in order to survive. It is not an easy life out there and they're not exactly getting any help.  However, Uralla does continue to be a working property only - but not without struggling.  Some more photos will be included in the book.  

By the way - I returned home and found that I have actually lost a bit of weight!  Not through lack of eating - believe me I have never been fed so well, or so much, or so healthily - throughout the journey - all the best home cooked country food and piles of it.  I also did a lot of walking while away - which would have helped - but I think the major cause of my weight loss - or should I say - lack of weight gain would be - no junk food.  No take away.  Just good wholesome food - oh - also some superb home made chocky - and those pizzas.  But otherwise - need I say more?

The final part of this first research trip was a quick visit to Sydney before flying home to Perth - and my family.  

Next stop - watch out Qld.  Three to four weeks up there - really looking forward to that too.  

Read all about - everything - in the book.

This Amazing Adventure Continues - and I can't get enough

Front Verandah - Kallara Homestead

The adventure certainly does continue.  I am now in Cobar, somewhere near the middle of NSW.  

Sally Henery was lovely enough to drive me from  Alpana Station to Port Augusta so I could visit my own old SotA base there.  And I did.  However I had been unable to contact that SotA for a few reasons (none to do with anyone at the base), to warn them of my impending visit - so I was not expected.  But I did meet the Vice Principal who was wonderful in taking a few minutes to quickly show me a lesson in progress - via the internet.  A far cry from the 'old' SotA days.  She also gave me her contact details so I am now able to keep them up to date about the cover design and title competition and SA's isolated families will be included with all the others nationwide.  

Down to Adelaide for a busy couple of days, meeting people and I did manage to catch up very quickly with one of my brothers and sister-in-law.  On my way yet again, heading north east toward Pitcairn - and then straight past it.  Countryside and towns all very familiar.  We were actually an hour late leaving Adelaide (very annoying reason for this which might - or not - eventually be revealed) and were unable to completely make up that time, while also trying to avoid kangaroos in the latter part of the trip.  But full marks to our brilliant driver, Mitch, for her efforts.  Our ETA in Broken Hill was 11.25 pm but instead we lopped in at sometime after midnight.  All the other passengers had homes to go to up there - but not me.  Oooooh no, I had to be different and believe me - that's not a good idea when you're in an unfamiliar town at that hour of the morning.  I have been to The Hill before, many years ago, but my memories are not strong.  I didn't recognise a thing after the 'Welcome to Broken Hill' sign.  My next coach was due to leave at 3.30 am - so, as can be guessed, not a lot of sleep was enjoyed.  None in fact - I didn't get to bed.  I did have everything organised - or so I thought - but therein lies another story.

Anyway, I caught that 3.30 am coach and arrived in Cobar on time at 9.25 am.  Following instructions I found my way to the local race course in time to see preparations in full swing,  for the Cobar Miners Race Club Annual Race Meeting.  Now, to say this event was a vision to behold - just amazing.  Absolutely and truly amazing.  The bright colours, the sheer professionalism, the atmosphere, food and drink etc.  Huh?  This was an outback race meeting?  Not the Melbourne Cup?  The fashions were straight out of a magazine for goodness sake - and they were easily equal to or better than those of any city meeting - including the hair styles - perfect.  Sharon Harland, Editor of The Cobar Weekly did suggest that I should pack appropriate attire for this event, including a fascinator - and I did.  Not the fascinator but the rest was there - in my case and there it stayed.  By the time I reached the race-course at first I was a tad beyond worrying about how I looked.  Then I was just too darned excited and happy to be there - so, yes, I stood out like a sore thumb - also because I am not a local.  Sharon's suggestion should have 'warned' me - but I honestly don't think anyone could have prepared me for that event.  These people know how to do it in style. I did get some wonderful photos, even if I do say so myself.  Including one of the Mayor.  Poor lady - but such a gracious person and her outfit - wow.  I'll never forget her - but hope she might forget me.  The day and event itself - also unforgettable.

Finally - out to my next station.  Kallara Station.  Home to another amazing couple, Julie and Justin McClure - and family, all away at school.  Julie's Uncle Max had attended the races and was good enough to drive me out after the day was over.  My thanks to you, Max.  Julie and Justin - like Sally Henery (I didn't meet her husband David - he was away for my visit) - are powerhouses of energy and information.  So warm and welcoming, bubbly, that fantastic outback sense of humour - and could not have been more supportive with information.  These women leave me lost for words.  The men too and in many cases these stations have been in their families for at least a couple of generations - anyway it will all be covered in the book.  Needless to say, there is no way that I could do what they do - live out there and all that goes with it.  My hat goes off to all of them.

I had a wonderful time on Kallara, being made to feel completely at home.  Took heaps of photos, had a ball.  Yesterday morning, when it was actually drizzling, one of the workers dropped me back into Cobar on his way home to Dubbo.  My thanks to him for that.  

I continue to meet many, many locals as well as those on the actual stations and getting heaps of photos - some of which will not be included - but many will.  As time is against me for this trip, particularly as I am being swamped with information, I have more or less settled into a 'routine' - in that I am making a point of meeting people as I can and if they have a story to tell which is in any way relevant at all, I introduce and explain myself, give them a business card (thank goodness I brought heaps), take a photo if necessary and contact details, mentioning that I will be in contact again once I have returned home.  This includes those on the stations themselves.

I am starting to have people actually approach me - this is a new world to me.

Next stop, Coonamble and my last station for this trip.  

I continue to absolutely thrive on this and looking forward to the next leg, Qld.

Sally Henery did mention that she could see how much I was and am loving doing this - that I am in my element - Sally doesn't think I'll ever finish this book because I am enjoying the research just a bit too much - and she could well be right.  

But it will be published - somehow - sometime.

The beautiful Darling River forms one boundary of Kallara.

My First Station Visit Completed - sortof - And It's TERRIFIC

Front verandah of the Alpana Station homestead

Well!  What can I say?  It is all very real and to be able to describe my feelings - I can't.  I just can't.  Try to expand on 'euphoric' - and you still won't come anywhere near to it - but that should give you a bit of an idea.  Simple as that.  I am absolutely and completely overwhelmed by the warmth, friendliness (is that a word?) and - everything, all rolled into one, of the people I have met thus far.  

My heartfelt thanks to the wonderful Sally Henery of Alpana Station, which is the very first property, nestled in South Australia's superb Flinders Ranges.  Sally has been the perfect hostess - to say nothing of being an absolute mine of information - I have just spent two and a bit days on their property and, honestly, could not have wanted for more - of anything - except time.  I needed far more time.  Far too much to see and do for such a limited time.  Sally introduced me to so many people - some from other nations, others originating from other parts of Australia, either cities, towns or farms, or even other stations - but all of whom are living and working in or near the tiny local township of Blinman - and all have a story to tell.  I even caught up with Mary Fisher, who used to live on 'Pitcairn'.  A wonderful reunion.  Most of these people have been fantastic enough to agree to participate in 'our' book - so I do have a very, very busy time ahead of me.  All so good.

I am not going to describe the 'area' surrounding Alpana and Blinman - suffice to say 'spectacular' does not really come anywhere near to the true description - but I can't think of anything else, so it'll do - and you'll just have to see why when the book is finally published.

There are also some absolutely amazing stories and facts coming to light - this is a huge learning curve for me.  The teeny tiny township of Blinman is steeped with history and is really lovely but - well, let's just say the people in the town and surrounding properties do have their problems - but much will be revealed elsewhere.

Hey, I even went into the fantastic Blinman Mine - wow - what an experience.  That 'wow' factor certainly applies here too.  And an unexpected bonus for my trip, which took both Sally and me by surprise - Alpana's  Tag-Along Tour.  Again you'll just have to read the full description in 'our' book - but it is pure magic - trust me.  The Wild Lime Cafe & Gallery is also a must-visit.

The sights and scenery of the majestic Flinders Ranges - WOW again.  But trying to take notes (that mine of information from Sally - some memory there) and photographs at the same time, while being driven along some pretty rocky roads, at some amazing angles ... hmmm.  So much fun though.  I had to take notes - or try to - as it was a tad too noisy for my little tape recorder.  Anyway, the book will tell all.

Now I am in Port Augusta, having been driven back by Sally today.  We dropped into Wilpena Pound along with a few other wonderful spots, en route.  Tomorrow I will be visiting the SotA base here, which is the one we used on Pitcairn - it's actually the only one in SA.  But I am really looking forward to that.  A couple of other places to visit while in town (recommended by those wonderful people in Blinman and surrounds), then off by coach to Adelaide for a couple of days.

Having been completely out of contact while on Alpana it was lovely to be able to talk with my husband and both daughters once I returned to civilisation.  Yes, I am missing them all very much - and this will only serve to make my eventual return home all that much sweeter.

But so much to look forward to before then.  And it will all be described fully in 'our' book. 

The original Alpana homestead.

Oops - apologies

What a way to begin.  I have just looked at my first posting and did mean to remove the background colour BEFORE posting - but it didn't happen.  Future postings will be much easier to read.

The Countdown Is On

My childhood home - looking 'outback'

The Book on Stations - or the Stations Book.  The research trips for this - or the first of them - is finally underway.  It is all rather hard to believe still and even though I have now left Perth for this first leg, it is still just 'hitting' me - the commitment which I have undertaken.  The sheer enormity of the challenge.

I honestly could not be happier - I am thriving on this.  Here I am, a 57 year young wife and mum, taking this on - and it is making me feel that I am ageing backwards.

But before I proceed - just to give the world a bit of background about this book.  I am doing something I have always wanted to do - write a book about the wonderful outback of Australia - about the people out there, their daily lives.  People who are, on the whole, facing a daily ongoing struggle to live and make a living - simply trying to survive - on some of the most enormous landholdings in the world - many of which are larger than most of Europe combined.  Many aspects are being included in this book - the daily lives of those people - education, health, transport, entertainment, employment, religion, politics, the Indigenous aspect and so much more.   The aim of the book is my effort to try to help raise the image of the outback and to 'educate' the rest of Australia and the world, that there are people out there.  And all that is mentioned above.

This all began a couple of years ago - after another book project failed almost before it really began, this one presented itself to me.  One door closes - another opens and I couldn't be happier about it.  Now I am about to embark on what I would consider to be one of the most - if not the most amazing and exciting challenge of my life, to date.  That is, after my marriage and the births of both my wonderful daughters - nothing will ever beat those events.  But this?  How can I describe the journey thus far?  Amazing?  Fantastic?  Overwhelming?  Yep.  All these - and so much more.  

The journey to date has really taken me out of my 'comfort zone ' - whatever that is.  Recently I have been asked quite a lot about this 'comfort zone' - while I am still trying to figure out exactly what it is - for me - I guess the answer is that I certainly have gone out of 'it' - well and truly.  In fact I think it's given up on me, on ever thinking I will return - and it simply comes with me now.  To say I am having the time of my life is very very much the understatement of the year.  Of the decade.  

But to return to that moment, two years ago.  I still vividly remember it and putting the first plan of action into progress the very next day.  I decided I wanted to involve as many sheep and cattle stations nationwide as possible - at least, those that wanted to be involved.  After a few days of hunting for a list of such properties, I eventually found one.  I then 'went by' the higher postcodes of each participating state - WA, SA, NT, NSW and Qld.  I literally went through each list and chose about a dozen properties from each of these states, then drafted a letter and sent it out.  Many did not respond at all - which is absolutely fine - it is entirely up to them.  And remembering that these people have been 'burned' badly in the past - by many different aspects, human and nature alike.  But those who did respond, were very, very enthusiastic about the entire thing and while it has taken a long time to reach this point, all these people have been incredibly patient and only seem to be getting more enthusiastic.  And now I am finding that as I describe my dream to people, I am being provided with just so many contacts and ideas - it really is snowballing.  

I have spent much my 'spare time' in the last year sending emails and following up any 'leads' I have been provided with and/or discovered on the net.  Anyone who might have had anything at all to do with the great outback.  While doing this I have also met and have begun interviewing about twenty of the most wonderful retired pastoralists.  This will continue throughout this year - once I have returned from this, the first leg of my research trips.

I flew from Perth to Adelaide this morning.  And yes, I will happily admit to being more than a bit nervous - actually, make that plain terrified - this is all part of 'leaving my comfort zone' - as I am terrified of flying.  And it doesn't matter how many people try to reassure me that it's far safer 'up there' than it is on the roads, driving.  I'm scared 'up there', jolly scared - and that's that!  But I did it.  I am here.   It didn't help that when I tried to leave the airport here - I found it has changed.  Completely threw me.  I had to look several times at both number plates and the huge 'Welcome to Adelaide' sign to reassure myself that I had taken the correct flight and was in the right place.

I leave Adelaide again, bright and early (yes I am actually enjoying the early starts) on Thursday morning to head up north to my first station, north of Port Augusta.  I am there for a few days before returning to spend a day in the port itself, visiting my own old School of the Air (hereafter called SotA) base.  Back to Adelaide the next day and I have a radio interview with one station and then lunch with the owner of a different station, as well as meeting a couple of other people, over the two days I am here.  Another early start and up the Barrier Highway to Broken Hill.  This trip is going to feel rather nostalgic as we follow the same road we used to use (and still do - my brother and sister in law - going back and forth to the station as well as the rest of us, when we can) and will be visiting some places that will certainly bring the memories back - meeting people from my past - my childhood.  This part of the trip will also take me within a few ks of my own childhood station.

So I will be heading up to Broken Hill.  Without looking at my ticket, I think I arrive there quite late so will stay overnight before the next super early start - onto Cobar.  I have two stations out of this town - one north and one south.  It seems my visit will also coincide with the social highlight of the year - the races.  For me, this is just so exciting - the local horse races were very much the social event of the year as we grew up.  You do have to remember these people really are isolated.  For so many of them their local shop can be thousands of kilometres away.  No local cinema, 'nextdoor' can again be hundreds of kilometres away.  If someone drops in on these people, there's no hopping down to the local shops or take-away or going to the nearest restaurant. 

Anyway, I will be delving into all this as I travel and it will all be diarised in this blog.  I do have a couple of other stations which I will not be visiting this trip but as both are 'just up the track' from 'Pitcairn', our family station, I will zoom up when visiting 'Pitcairn' at some stage.  I also have a couple of others in SA.  

After Cobar I travel onto Dubbo and up to Coonamble.  Another couple of days there then finally back to Sydney for two nights - and home.  

I will be writing, observing, photographing, interviewing solidly throughout this trip - have already begun and 'tastes' will be published in my blog. 

But to really learn, really gain an insight into this world - you'll just have to wait.